Tag Archives: Fort Scott

Exploring Fort Scott, Kansas

Novelist E. E. Burke found her inspiration for her Steam! Romance and Rails historical romantic suspense series in Fort Scott, Kansas. To celebrate the launch of Passion’s Prize and Her Bodyguard, she gave away a two-night stay at the amazing Lyons Twin Mansions in historic Fort Scott. I never win anything big, so I was giddy when she e-mailed me to tell me that I was the lucky winner.

So Jim and I packed our bags and headed to Fort Scott a few weekends ago, where we got to stay in one of a pair of elegant twin mansions on National Street. Built by wealthy New York bankers during the 1870s, the mansions were never lived in by their owners, who moved East after their prospects nosedived. Today, both homes are owned by members of the Lyons family, and Ms. Pat is the ultimate B&B hostess. The rooms are airy and comfortable and the house is true to its roots without being overly fussy.

Usually when we’re traveling, we tend to eat on the cheap. But Ms. Pat suggested we head to Crooner’s Lounge, a surprisingly nice little restaurant tucked in next to the historic Liberty Theatre. It’s only open three nights a week and their menu varies night to night, making it a nice place to go out for both locals and the tourists.

Crooner's Lounge was the perfect place for a nice dinner.

Crooner’s Lounge was the perfect place for a nice dinner. Chalkboards on the walls list the night’s menu.

What I love about Fort Scott is that the town understands that their history is one of their greatest assets, and they go out of their way to make it accessible. We headed for the visitor’s center and took a Trolley Tour of the town. Even though Jim and I love exploring towns on our own, I recommend Fort Scott’s Trolley Tour. It’s a great way to see most of the town and our tour guide taught us a lot of local history. For example, Fort Scott once had three big brick factories, which is why everywhere you go in Fort Scott, you see locally made bricks in the streets and sidewalks.

Fort Scott was once home to three brick factories.

Fort Scott was once home to three brick factories.

Next, we visited the Fort Scott National Historic Site. When I think of early Kansas history and westward expansion, I tend to think of Kansas during the years leading up to the Civil War. But Fort Scott’s roots are much older than that. Established in 1842, Fort Scott was one of a line of forts that was supposed to protect the boundary between white settlement and the lands designated for Native Americans. This was important at a time when the Santa Fe Trail and Oregon Trail were both bringing non-Native Americans across that boundary.

Fort Scott National Historic Site, as seen from the parade ground.

Fort Scott National Historic Site, as seen from the parade ground.

The Fort was originally home to infantry soldiers and dragoons. After the U.S. gained large sections of land once belonging to Mexico, the government’s attitude toward land use changed dramatically and, in 1853, the Fort was abandoned. Two years later, the buildings were sold at auction.

The Fort’s story didn’t end there, though. Being only a few miles west of the Missouri-Kansas border, Fort Scott became an important strategic location during the Civil War. Injured soldiers were hospitalized there, and many of the old buildings were put back into use. Once the war was over, the buildings fell into private hands. Many were destroyed or nearly destroyed during the subsequent decades. During the 1950s, concerned citizens and historians worked together to restore still-existing buildings and reconstruct buildings no longer standing in order to recreate the 1840s version of Fort Scott.

The fort is a treasure. The site does a wonderful job telling the story of what life was life for soldiers in what would have been the edge of the western U.S. boundary during the 1840s. A short video at the Visitor Center gives a great introduction to the fort’s history.

Many of the surviving buildings were in use for years after the military left the fort. One of the Officers’ Quarters was a private family home from 1855 through 1958. Instead of restoring it to a particular time period, the National Park Service chose to use what’s known as the Wilson/Goodlander Home as an opportunity to show how the building transitioned over the decades by peeling back the layers. Literally.

The Wilson/Goodlander Home, once part of the Officers' Quarters at Fort Scott, is used to showcase decades of alterations made to the historic building. Here a cutaway shows visitors the original location of a fireplace and a floor cutout for a furnace.

The Wilson/Goodlander Home, once part of the Officers’ Quarters at Fort Scott, is used to showcase decades of alterations made to the historic building. Here a cutaway shows visitors the original location of a fireplace and a floor cutout for a furnace.

After our trip to the fort, we visited Fort Scott National Cemetery. Originally called National Cemetery No. 1, the cemetery, which was originally a Presbyterian Graveyard, is one of the original fourteen national cemeteries. After it was officially designated a national cemetery in 1862, the remains of soldiers and prisoners originally interred at the old cemetery west of the fort were moved to the new site southeast of town.

Fort Scott National Cemetery, also known as National Cemetery No. 1.

Fort Scott National Cemetery, also known as National Cemetery No. 1.

The cemetery is the final resting place of the remains of more than 50,000 veterans. The stone wall surrounding the grounds was built in 1873. I was especially moved by the graves of 13 Confederate Soldiers who died as prisoners of war and the mass burials of World War II crew members who could not be individually identified in the days before DNA testing. It is a solemn and beautiful place, with little to disturb it beyond the occasional cries of crows and hawks overhead.

On our final afternoon in Fort Scott, we hit downtown on foot. Despite losing an entire city block during a terrible fire in 2003, downtown Fort Scott is beautiful and very much alive. We wandered in and out of antique stores and walked around the last remaining lunette, or block house, preserved between downtown and the Fort Scott National Historic Site. Several block houses were erected in 1863 as part of the effort to guard the large quantities of supplies stored at Fort Scott during the Civil War.

Finally, we traveled to the outskirts of town to visit the local civilian cemeteries. Thanks to early settlement and early railroad lines, the citizens of Fort Scott had access to finer materials and the cemeteries reflect that. Evergreen Cemetery is a large burial ground with many mausoleums and ornate headstones. Across the road is Pine Lawn, a Jewish Cemetery.

An entire weekend was not enough time to see everything in Fort Scott, which has become one of our favorite historic Kansas towns. It will be worth revisiting again. We’re especially grateful to E.E. Burke and Ms. Pat at Lyons Twin Mansions for making this trip an extra special one.

Sunday Snapshot: She loved her cows and Kansas (at Fort Scott National Cemetery)

I’ll write more on Fort Scott and the national cemetery soon. In the meanwhile, I was surprised (and charmed) to discover modern military headstones allow a little personalization.


Bertha Elizabeth Lyons, 1918-2008. Naval Pharmacist Mate Third Class during World War II. Lover of cows and Kansas the rest of her life.

Great Scott!

Whenever time, good weather, and a little cash coincide, my husband and I like to putter around a Kansas town we’ve never seen before. Today we made the trip to Fort Scott, Kansas, to see both the town and the original fort. After a trolley ride on Dolly the Trolley (Fort Scott is extremely visitor-friendly), which took us through several streets of some of the most beautiful homes in Kansas, National Cemetery No. 1, and the historic downtown district, we set out on foot to tour the fort.

Downtown Fort Scott

A small portion of the beautiful historic buildings in Fort Scott.

The fort itself was built in 1842, which is pretty old in terms of Kansas history. It served as a sort of buffer between European westward expansion and what was still considered Indian territory. It was considered obsolete by the middle of the 1850s, but became active again during the Civil War. In the meanwhile, a gorgeous town, whose many original buildings still stand and are in use, grew along side the fort.

The fort itself presents a forum for an interesting discussion on what constitutes a true historic site. Does the building have to be the original building? Should it be restored? What about the furnishings? Do visitors expect to see the actual bunk beds shared by enlisted men, or are replicas okay? Is the Magazine – the building where gunpowder was stored – historic if it was completely rebuilt on top of the remnants of the unearthed foundation?

The fort’s hospital is a great example of resurrection. As one of the exhibits indicates, the building was ultimately salvaged after years of abuse and disuse, returned to look as it did when it was first constructed. But in the process of restoring it to its 1850s appearance, nearly 100 years of history had to be erased.

Information Placard of Fort Scott Today

A map of Fort Scott in its current state. Note, at the bottom, the series of photographs depicting the deterioration of the hospital building.

Diana Staresinic-Deane at Fort Scott

Me, at Fort Scott. Notice the restored hospital building behind me. The rebuilt Magazine is over my right shoulder. Yes, my hair tends to stick out like that.

What the site does extremely well is tell the story of those early years, which is exactly the point of a National Historic Site. The fort feels large, but I’ll bet those dragoons felt like they were living on a postage stamp of land in the middle of the vast prairie in the 1840s and 1850s. The information placards are very well done and convey the experience of life at Fort Scott, both during its early years, and when it was caught in the crossfire of the pro-slavery and anti-slavery movements prior to the Civil War.

The city of Fort Scott offers to much to see and do in one day, and merits at least a second trip. Photography lovers will appreciate knowing that city is the home of Gordon Parks, and much of his work is on display there. The Marais des Cygnes Massacre Site and Mine Creek Battlefield State Historic Site are also nearby. A few days to shop, eat, and walk through the historic neighborhoods are a must to really appreciate all that’s there.